Clotilde Dusoulier's Montmartre Favorites

Clotilde writes that it is "uncannily difficult to find an authentic and unpretentious restaurant in Paris," adding that most are "either mediocre or horrendously … overpriced." Not Pulcinella, she insists, with its "affable service" and "seasonal Neapolitan cuisine," which includes antipasti and fresh market cuisine like spaghetti with lobster or asparagus, scamorza salad, and "the indulgent cantuccio, a sort of tiramisu that involves whipped cream and caramelized almonds. [link]

Clotilde calls Le Progrès "perfect for drinks and people-watching," but warns you not to eat at this "handsome cafe at the foot of Sacré-Coeur. It has a warm … vibe to it, and the giant windows make it nice and bright. There are a few tables on the sidewalk to snatch when the weather is mild."
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"Once settled in Montmartre, it didn't take me long to elect this bakery as my favorite," Clotilde writes of Coquelicot, a Montmartre bakery that also has indoor and … outdoor tables for breakfast or brunch. "I make an alarming consumption of their Piccola baguette (free form, lightly dusted with flour, and astoundingly flavorful)," as well as seasonal specialty breads like violet and pineapple, goat cheese and hazelnut, or buckwheat and cherry. Don't be put off by the line, she says, which moves quickly and gives you a moment to "weigh your options and decide whether to get a bag of first-rate choquettes, a slice of quart-quart citron (lemon pound cake), or a thin chocolate baguette twist." [link]

A "casual French restaurant, slightly trendy but very good" at the foot of Sacré-Coeur, Chéri Bibi serves "a mix of comfort food (whelks with homemade … mayonnaise, a roasted thigh of partridge with mashed potatoes) and travel-inspired dishes (lemongrass-marinated salmon, a beef stew with cocoa) in a comfortable dining room furnished with flea market finds." [link]

This "wine shop where you can drink and nibble," Clotilde writes, "is the essence of the neighborhood wine shop, unpretentious in spirit and offering a selection of … petites bouteilles (wines for everyday consumption) by small vintners at an excellent price point." A handful of sidewalk tables "and the speakeasy-like room at the rear of the shop serve as a wine bar. Regulars drop in for a glass of wine and a plate of rillettes or cheese on their way to or from" running errands. [link]

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