Spargelzeit in Berlin

It's that magical time of year again! The season of all seasons -- spargelzeit (asparagus time). Bunches of chlorophyll-deprived white asparagus hit the veggie stands last week.Among the rest of the colorful fruits and vegetables, it sticks out like some sickly and awkwardly tall kid, a gangly outsider. But that doesn't deter the Germans. For the next two months, the strange white vegetable will be the envy of all edible herbaceous plants, as the star of spring-time menus in restaurants across the country. And Berlin is said to have among the best, getting it fresh from the sandy soils of surrounding Brandenburg.

It's not just that old adage about asparagus being a type of aphrodisiac that makes it of appeal to Berlin's urbanites. No, as the chefs in the city's restaurants prove each year, preparing spargel is something of a creative endeavor. From spargel appetizers, soups, and salads to hearty spargel main courses to, yes, spargel dessert (asparagus crème brûlée or ice cream, anyone?), their creations make getting in those five veggie servings per day pretty easy. And since everyone is eating it, you don't have to be self-conscious about reeking of stinky asparagus pee while sweating it out on the dance floors of Berlin's clubs. Here are a few locales with reputable spargel menus.

Adlon
Unter den Linden 77, 10117
The annual Adlon asparagus menus kick in come May 20 and will be available in the hotel's Restaurant Quarré and the Gourmet Restaurant Lorenz through June 24. They're already advertising the signature asparagus crème brûlée. Just be sure to reserve a table if you want to go: 30 2261 1959.

Borchardt
Franzoesische Strasse 47, 10117
The special menu at Borchardt doesn't seem to be available yet. But one of the best traditional asparagus meals in town could be had here last year. That's basically asparagus with either butter or hollandaise sauce, potatoes, and one of several different types of pork (smoked, cooked, or schnitzeled).

Istoria
Kollwitzstrasse 64, 10405
This pizza joint on Kollwitzplatz also has a spargel menu with the usual cream of asparagus soup or plate of asparagus with potatoes (and hollandaise, of course). Its more original options include a couple of asparagus dishes with beef or a mixed salad featuring the much-sought-after veggie.

Schneeweiss
Simplonstrasse 16, 10245
Since Schneeweiss got a positive review in the New York Times, it's been tough to get a table here for dinner without a reservation. But it's worth planning ahead, especially if you're a green asparagus fan. That's right, Schneeweiss' chef is so bold as to cook up gourmet German dishes using the chlorophyll-rich variety of asparagus! Menu options currently include asparagus with a celery schnitzel, potatoes, and lemon hollandaise.

Schwarzwaldstuben
Tucholskystrasse 48, 10117
At of my favorite German restaurants in the city, the wait staff expect to see plenty of asparagus specials on the menu in the coming weeks. The departure from the usual here seems to be the rosemary schinken with asparagus. This is likely to be my next stop on the spargel tour.

Sophieneck
Grosse Hamburger Strasse 37, 10115
Schnitzel or schinken with potatoes and spargel, the standard asparagus meals, are back on the weekly specials menu at this comfy stand-by in Mitte. They'll be there throughout spargel season, as they seem to be every year. It's an easy spot to stop for lunch -- it's just off the chaotic Alex-Hackescher Markt-Oranienburger Strasse swath of Mitte.