Chasing the Green Fairy in Paris
Although absinthe was invented in Switzerland, after the Pernod family began distilling it in France in 1805, the anise-flavored herbal liquor became nearly synonymous with the cafés and cabarets of Paris. During its heyday, absinthe served as the muse to countless painters, poets, and ordinary folks, seducing its devotees and confounding its critics. But the fun came to an end in 1915, when it was banned in France. Accused of causing deleterious effects in those who imbibed it, including fits of madness and even death, it wasn't until recently that absinthe has made a comeback.
Though absinthe now contains less wormwood -- once thought to be the most dangerous element of the green-colored drink -- the unpleasant side effects were more likely caused by heavy metals or other impurities. If you're eager to learn more about this legendary beverage, consider a trip to the Musée de l'Absinthe, just outside of Paris in Auvers-sur-Oise (otherwise notable as the town where Van Gogh spent the last weeks of his life) when it reopens in March 2008. Alternatively, if you want to experience absinthe's effects first-hand in the city that made it both beloved and infamous, here are a few choice addresses.
Vert d'Absinthe
1, Rue d'Ormesson
75004 Paris, Paris, France
This small boutique specializing in everything absinthe will delight die-hard fans and impress those who are new to absinthe's charms. With its great selection of … decorative glasses, slotted spoons, absinthe fountains, absinthe-themed prints, and of course, bottles of absinthe itself, you can find everything you need to fulfill your cravings. [link]
Hôtel Royal Fromentin
11, Rue Fromentin
75009 9ème Arrondissement Paris, Paris, France
Although absinthe has a universal appeal, its spiritual home is Pigalle, where generations of artists, actors, poets, and dancers indulged their considerable appetites … for the stuff, in between creating lasting works of art. Pigalle is much changed since those days, but it is possible to catch a glimpse of that infamous era by visiting the Hôtel Royal Fromentin, not far from Place Pigalle. For those interested, the hotel offers absinthe tastings in its beautifully preserved lobby, once the site of the Don Juan cabaret. [link]
Les Furieux
74, Rue de la Roquette
75011 11ème Arrondissement Paris, Paris, France
Les Furieux, which bills itself as a "bar Rock et plus," is a constant hive of activity thanks to the art exhibits, special events, and DJ sets it plays host to nightly. … In the midst of this unique setting, visitors to Les Furieux can not only sample eight different kinds of absinthe on its own, but also absinthe cocktails, absinthe shots, and absinthe flambée. [link]
La Fée Verte
108, Rue de la Roquette
75011 11ème Arrondissement Paris, Paris, France
For a romantic re-creation of the absinthe ritual, you can't beat the casual café-bistro La Fée Verte, located not far from the Bastille. Pick your favorite libation … from the absinthe menu, then sit back and watch the icy water drip (from an elegant silver and glass fountain brought to your table for the purpose) over a sugar cube and spoon and into your glass. If you're hungry as well as thirsty, La Fée Verte offers interesting food options, such as vegetarian lasagna and lamb burgers. [link]
Les Caves du Roy
31, Rue Simart
75018 18ème Arrondissement Paris, Paris, France
When bad boy chef and author (and occasional Gridskipper sponsor) Anthony Bourdain came to Paris a few years ago to film an episode of his TV show, No Reservations, Les … Caves du Roy was one of the places he visited in his quest for absinthe. Although this shop in Montmartre also sells wine and other spirits, its selection of premium absinthes and absinthe accoutrements is second in the city only to absinthe specialty store Vert d'Absinthe. [link]
Cantada II
13, Rue Moret
75011 11ème Arrondissement Paris, Paris, France
This goth/punk bar just off rue Oberkampf may seem an unlikely place to relive the past glories of absinthe-drinking, but it has in fact an amazingly large selection of … absinthes to sample -- 25 varieties in all. If you need something to take the edge off the high-alcohol buzz you'll soon be feeling, you can order something edible off the "cuisine médiévale" menu on offer ... yet another surprising element of the Cantada II experience. [link]
