Beginner's Guide to Frankfurt
Frankfurt is a business town, geared mostly to finance and banking -- it's the home of Europe's Central Bank. Therefore, it labors against a (somewhat) unfair reputation as being a stodgy, dull town. Well sure, it's no Berlin or Munich, but this fine sausage-making metropolis still has a few delights to offer. Most of the city was obliterated during World War II, so much of the usual euro-touring is replaced by cruising the streets, noshing sausages, stopping in countless apple-wine bars, and hanging out with opera fiends. If that's your thing, we have a few choice recommendations for your maiden Frankfurtage.
Frankfurter Sausage: Frankfurters -- similar to better grades of American hot dogs -- are sold all over the city, and when in Frankfurt ... you know. The easiest place to get a good sausage is on Zeil, the main pedestrian street in the downtown area. Many delis and street carts sell frankfurters in pairs with bread and mustard on the side.
Gemalten Haus: This traditional establishment offers mostly meat, and they have an excellent version of the city's specialty gruener sauce -- green sauce made with seven herbs. The gruener here is served with prime boiled beef. Don't order beer here or in many of the city's more old-school restaurants. They only serve apfelwein (apple wine).
German Film Museum: This is a favorite spot for locals, and the museum always has interesting film series involving all different genres. Recently they focused Indian Cinema and films by Maria Schell. The complex houses a museum, a movie theater, and a video library.
Germania: Though there are tons of bars in the popular Alt-Sachsenhausen neighborhood, the patrons are mostly tourists. Instead, head a few minutes away south on Textorstrasse to find better kneipan -- bars serving and specializing in apple wine. The clientele here are mostly locals. Germania is a good choice, as it's a traditional bar with great food on the weekends.
Jazzkeller: A gathering spot for jazz musicians and music lovers since the 1950s, the Jazzkeller is one of the cooler bars in the city. It hosts visiting and local jazz musicians, and the roster is always impressive. Louis Armstrong, Dizzy Gillespie, and Gerry Mulligan have all played here, among many many others.
Klosterhof: Located behind the Frankfurter Hof Hotel, Klosterhof is another traditional German place. Their menu is heavy on the meat, but they also have excellent homemade spud dishes -- potato pancakes, potato dumplings, and spaetzle. A particular delicacy is boiled and roasted pigs' knuckles.
Konstablerwache Market: From 8 a.m. until 4 p.m. daily, there's a huge farmer's market at one end of the Zeil pedestrian zone. Here you can buy locally grown and produced foods, including meat, honey, cheese, apple wine, and milk.
Künstlerkeller: The cavernous basement bar is a major hangout for the post-opera crowds, as well as artists, singers, and musicians. Try going before the opera lets out to avoid the sudden influx. They're open until 3 a.m. but serve small hot meals until 1 a.m.
Oper Frankfurt: The home of the Frankfurt opera, this is a one of the most important opera houses in the world. The original Frankfurt opera was destroyed when the city was bombed in World War II, and this current hall was rebuilt in 1951.
Pure Hotel: The extremely pale hotel opened in the center of Frankfurt not quite two years ago. Its ultra-modern design seems a little overdone with all that white, but the albino vibe appeals to a trendy crowd. Extras include LCD TVs in every room, free wifi, and laptops for the borrowing. See our earlier review; rates start at €190 per night.
-- Amanda Kludt
Previously: Beginner's Guide to Vancouver, Beginner's Guide to Cairo, Beginner's Guide to Barcelona, Beginner's Guide to Sarajevo
