Paris' Viaduc des Arts

This high-concept furniture store is the lovechild of a Frenchwoman, an astrophysicist, and a Japanese man who met on a boat in Asia 20 years ago. They founded this line … together, which they like to think of as being in the spirit of "a permanent laboratory." They design pieces which remain organic in both inspiration and execution: little white mushroom shaped lamps, rugs that mimic grass, and fluid armchairs in bright, cheery colors are just a few of Yamakado's signature designs. They'll do made-to-order pieces as well. [link]

This modern cafe has a very contemporary feel to it -- as if you could be anywhere from London to New York to San Francisco. The fare is very decent, and the flavor … pairings excellent: the foie gras is served with a fig chutney, and the dorade is cooked in mango sauce. The service leaves something to be desired, however, even by Parisian standards. They also feature a jazz brunch on the weekends, although depending on how far you're seated from the musicians, this can be either pleasant or annoying. [link]

Take a long, leisurely stroll several stories above the dirty Paris streets, on this former railroad line turned garden (a.k.a. La Coulée verte) built atop the viaduct, … which you may remember from the film Before Sunset. Along the way, you'll notice the most pornographic building in Paris: an Art Déco masterpiece of women fondling their own breasts (at number 80). Actually, it's meant to be a copy of Michelangelo's Esclave Mourante. But you'll see what we mean. [link]

At this "photothèque," you can buy the most amazing antique, contemporary, and limited edition photographs. The owner, Patrice Le Goux, regularly organizes exhibitions … in the basement gallery of the shop, where he welcomes budding photographers to contribute. Milyeux also offers a wide range of other services, including photographic retouching, printing, and web design. [link]

It's not open to the public, but through the window you can watch the comings and goings around famed costumer Stéphane Rollot, who, with a team of expert couturiers, … creates the painstakingly beautiful pieces commissioned for films and plays and operas in Paris and around Europe -- even the Fête des Vignerons in Vevey, Switzerland. Rollot is the one behind the fabulously revealing corset dress Isabelle Adjani wears in Queen Margot, and he also did A Very Long Engagement, Arsène Lupin, and Eric Rohmer's L'Anglaise et le Duc. [link]

The women of Second Empire Paris went into frenzied ecstasy at the fabrics and trimmings on sale at the fictional department store in Zola's novel Au Bonheur des Dames; … over time, department stores have shifted from selling the materials for clothing to selling ready-to-wear. And this shop at number 17 occupies the niche left behind. For those who prefer to do their own knitting, embroidering, and patchwork and needlepoint, Le Bonheur des Dames is a great resource. [link]

Cécile et Jeanne specialize in the kind of exotic, vaguely eccentric costume jewelry that you may feel ambivalent about behind the glass case, but you covet when you see … it around the neck of a soignée Parisienne. Or you may love it immediately. They work with materials ranging from conservative silver, gold, and pearl to gunmetal, colorful resins, and antique copper, and the results vary from extremely delicate to serious and sculptural necklaces, bracelets, and earrings. Other locations around town. [link]

Need a painting restored? Or are you perhaps just interested in seeing how it's done? Stop by the Atelier du temps passé, which is run by Alix de la … Villesbrunne-Dumielle and Annette Douay, two respected art restorers who are frequently called on by the ministry of Historical Monuments. They also offer classes in art history, drawing, conservation, and restoration. [link]

This gallery, just off the viaduct in a cobblestoned courtyard, bills itself as a "shopping center for contemporary art." They're dedicated to selling art at reasonable … prices and to encouraging people who may know nothing about art to walk in and not feel intimidated. They feature a range of artists doing work that is sometimes challenging, sometimes whimsical, and sometimes aesthetically pleasing (and often all at once), and they'll ship anywhere you like. [link]

One of our favorite cafes in Paris (as we've mentioned before). Between the lofty, airy space and the cozy, down-home gardening decor (garden gnomes peep out of … unexpected corners), this is one of the best brasseries in eastern Paris, and an ideal spot to stop and arroser (a pun on "water" and "drink to") your afternoon at the Viaduc des Arts. [link]