Sam Spade's San Francisco


Monday, July 16, 2007

sam%20spade%20san%20francisco.jpgNoir as we know it was born in San Francisco, in a studio apartment at 891 Post Street. Noir lives on today, and not just because one can still rent that apartment where Dashiell Hammett made his home. Walk the streets where the Tenderloin meets Nob Hill and Union Square (or, "Lower Nob Hill," if you will), and you can't help but encounter a few of these shadowy figures, bumped-off memories, and living nostalgia -- all done up in the best monochrome, with fog on the lens.

1

Sam Spade's Apartment

891 Post St
San Francisco, CA 94109

This apartment's legendary for the sake of fiction, so let it be imaginary: where Spade retreats for a drink, gives up the girl, and likely, still stares down on Leavenworth today. A plaque marks the building as a Literary Landmark, but don't just turn up. Let the poor guy who still lives there alone, and sleuth around the links for some photos of the interior instead. [link]

N 37° 47.14171 W 122° 24.59302
2

Maxfield's Pied Piper Bar

2 New Montgomery St inside Palace Hotel San Francisco, CA 94105




This relaxed yet done-up-to-the-nines bar where Spade takes a drink is the perfect place to collect on that check from the dangerous dame who's hired you; two top-shelf martinis with gratuity can set you back $30. They're also likely to get you so soused, you'll start to forget how much is proper to tip, who did that marvelous painting above you (no one slipped you anything -- it's Maxfield Parrish), and if the lady who followed you to the luxe marble bathroom (shared with the Palace Hotel) is about to kiss you or kill you. [link]

N 37° 47.18689 W 122° 24.6433
3

Hotel Union Square

114 Powell St
San Francisco, CA 94102




Already beloved by Gridskipper, this, one of San Francisco's original boutique hotels, lavishes on the hip -- free wifi and in-room condoms & conveniences -- with old school touches: exposed brick, rattling windows from the Cable Car. The Dashiell Hammett Suite is done up to look like Spade & Archer's office, which could go the way of kitsch a little quick for more than a night. [link]

N 37° 47.8307 W 122° 24.28295
4

Tunnel Top

601 Bush St
San Francisco, CA 94108
(415) 986-8900

The distinguishing feature of this nouveau dive bar is pure aura & setting: sharing a block with a massage parlor and the infamous corner "where Bush Street roofs Stockton before slipping downhill." Have a few of the robust house Manhattans and gimlets, and don't you slip, too. Beware the women in the dark up on the second floor. That smoke is actually from cigarettes. [link]

N 37° 47.25364 W 122° 24.25714
5

Secret Agent Salon

630 Bush St
San Francisco, CA 94108
(415) 956-2942

Right on Dashiell Hammett Alley, owner Melissa Wagner has crafted an oasis of cool, from the over-the-top film posters & framed LPs to the mint green metal carts bearing hair goodies. And the tunes, wow. Plus she and ace stylist Shelly know the difference a decade makes in cutting a bob (a 1920s Louise Brooks is not 1930s Tallulah Bankhead), and they'll help you rock the perfect chignon or up-do for an afternoon of seduction and crime. [link]

N 37° 47.25144 W 122° 24.27442
6

John's Grill

63 Ellis St
San Francisco, CA 94102
(415) 986-0069

On the one hand, this is noir kitsch, complete with takeaway Brigid O'Shaughnessy (the dame that knocked off Spade's partner just a few blocks from here) commemorative glasses with every Bloody Mary. On the other, Mr. Hammett did actually dine here, and so did his fictional other, on pork chops and sliced tomatoes. Show up for a late afternoon scotch served neat, or sneak past the tourists posing with the Falcon (if it's back yet; it seems to wander off occasionally) for hot jazz at night. [link]

N 37° 47.8030 W 122° 24.26236
7

Kayo Books

814 Post St
San Francisco, CA 94109
(415) 749-0554

Open at the end of the week only (when you're playing hooky anyway), Kayo's got shelves packed floor-to-ceiling with pulp. The atmosphere is airy and easy -- not at all the musty warren of yore one may expect -- and the classic SF neighborhood does good by its collection, spanning hardboiled to exploitation to Beat history and back again. Plus a helping of 1960s and 1970s smut rags, of course. A real neighborhood joint, with a crew who stops by to chat Capote with you as you browse. [link]

N 37° 47.14704 W 122° 24.54853

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